Buffalo Grass: Complete Growing & Care Guide

Buffalo grass (Bouteloua dactyloides) is a warm-season, perennial turfgrass native to the North American Great Plains that thrives on as little as 12 inches of rainfall per year, making it one of the most drought-tolerant lawn grasses available. It grows 3–8 inches tall, spreads by stolons, and requires roughly half the water, fertilizer, and mowing of traditional lawn grasses like Kentucky Bluegrass or Bermuda. This guide covers buffalo grass varieties, planting methods, mowing heights, watering needs, fertilization, and common problems, everything you need to establish and maintain a healthy buffalo grass lawn.

What is buffalo grass?

Buffalo grass (Bouteloua dactyloides, formerly Buchloe dactyloides) is a fine-textured, warm-season grass native to the short-grass prairies of North America, stretching from Montana to Mexico. It’s one of the few truly native grasses used as a lawn turf in the United States. According to Kansas State University Extension, buffalo grass evolved to survive the harsh conditions of the Great Plains, extreme heat, cold, drought, and grazing, making it uniquely adapted to low-input lawns. Buffalo grass is dioecious, meaning individual plants are either male or female. Male plants produce seed heads on stalks above the leaf canopy, while female plants produce seed burrs close to the ground. Most improved cultivars are female selections propagated vegetatively from plugs or sod, chosen for denser turf and lower growth habit. Important note: In Australia, “buffalo grass” refers to Stenotaphrum secundatum, known in the US as St. Augustine grass. These are completely different species. This guide covers the North American Bouteloua dactyloides. If you’re looking for St. Augustine / Australian buffalo grass care, see our grass types hub for the relevant guide.

Where does buffalo grass grow best?

Buffalo grass performs best in USDA Hardiness Zones 3–9, across the Great Plains from western Minnesota to eastern Montana and south through Texas. It’s ideally suited to regions receiving 12–25 inches of annual rainfall with hot summers and cold winters.

Growing Condition	Buffalo Grass Requirement	Notes
Sun exposure	Full sun (8+ hours)	Will not tolerate shade, thins rapidly below 6 hours of direct sun
USDA zones	3–9	Handles temperatures from −20°F to 110°F
Annual rainfall	12–25 inches	Supplemental irrigation rarely needed in native range
Soil type	Heavy clay to loam	Performs poorly in sandy or well-drained soils
Soil pH	6.0–8.0	Tolerates alkaline soils well
Foot traffic tolerance	Low to moderate	Not suited for athletic fields or heavy-use areas
Shade tolerance	Very low	Bermuda or zoysia are better choices for partial shade

According to the University of Nebraska-Lincoln Extension, buffalo grass is not well-suited for the eastern United States where annual rainfall exceeds 30 inches, because increased moisture promotes aggressive competition from weeds and other grasses that outcompete buffalo grass.

What are the best buffalo grass varieties?

Modern buffalo grass cultivars have been bred for improved density, color, and turf quality compared to common seeded types. The best varieties are female vegetative selections that produce denser, lower-growing turf with no tall seed heads.

Variety	Type	Planting Method	Height	Key Features
UC Verde	Female vegetative	Plugs or sod	2–4 in	Darkest green color, densest turf, developed by UC Davis for low-water landscapes
Prestige	Female vegetative	Plugs or sod	3–4 in	Excellent density and dark green color, greens up earlier in spring
Legacy	Female vegetative	Plugs or sod	4–6 in	Good cold tolerance, fine texture, widely available
Density	Female vegetative	Plugs or sod	3–5 in	Outstanding turf quality, slow to establish but very thick once mature
Sundancer	Seeded (treated burs)	Seed	4–6 in	Most widely available seeded variety, good turf quality for a seeded type
Bowie	Seeded (treated burs)	Seed	4–6 in	Improved color and density over common types, good drought tolerance
Cody	Seeded (treated burs)	Seed	4–6 in	Early green-up, good cold tolerance, released by University of Nebraska
Texoka	Seeded (treated burs)	Seed	5–8 in	Common commercial type, less dense than improved varieties

According to Colorado State University Extension, vegetative varieties (plugs/sod) produce a denser, more uniform lawn than seeded types, but cost significantly more to establish. Seeded varieties are more economical for large areas but take 2–3 growing seasons to fully fill in. For a detailed comparison of each cultivar, see our buffalo grass varieties guide.

How do you plant buffalo grass?

Plant buffalo grass in late May through June when soil temperatures consistently reach 60°F at a 4-inch depth. You have three planting options: seed, plugs, or sod. Plugs provide the best balance of cost and establishment speed for most homeowners.

Planting from seed

1. Purchase treated (de-burred) seed, untreated buffalo grass seed has a germination rate below 20%, while treated seed reaches 70–80%
2. Prepare the soil by removing all existing vegetation and tilling the top 4–6 inches
3. Apply seed at 3–6 lbs per 1,000 sq ft (higher rate for faster coverage)
4. Rake seed into the top ¼ inch of soil, do not bury deeper
5. Roll the area lightly with a lawn roller to ensure seed-to-soil contact
6. Water lightly 2–3 times daily for the first 3 weeks to keep the top ½ inch moist
7. Reduce watering to 2–3 times per week after germination (7–21 days)
8. Expect full coverage in 2–3 growing seasons from seed

Planting from plugs

1. Space plugs 12–18 inches apart in a staggered grid pattern (closer spacing = faster fill)
2. Dig holes slightly larger than each plug using a plug auger or bulb planter
3. Set each plug so the crown is level with the surrounding soil surface
4. Firm soil around each plug and water immediately
5. Water daily for the first 2 weeks, then 2–3 times per week for the first growing season
6. Expect full coverage in 1–2 growing seasons with 12-inch spacing

Planting from sod

1. Prepare the soil surface, grade, till, and firm
2. Lay sod pieces tightly together with staggered seams (like brickwork)
3. Roll sod with a lawn roller to ensure root-to-soil contact
4. Water immediately and keep sod consistently moist for 2–3 weeks until roots establish
5. Provides instant coverage but is the most expensive option ($0.50–$1.00+ per sq ft)

Planting Method	Cost per 1,000 sq ft	Time to Full Coverage	Best For
Treated seed	$15–$40	2–3 growing seasons	Large areas, budget-conscious
Plugs (12″ spacing)	$100–$300	1–2 growing seasons	Best balance of cost and speed
Sod	$500–$1,000+	Instant (roots in 2–3 weeks)	Small areas, instant results

How do you mow buffalo grass?

Mow buffalo grass to 2–3 inches every 10–14 days during the growing season (May through September). Many homeowners choose not to mow buffalo grass at all, allowing it to form a natural 4–6 inch meadow-like turf that requires zero mowing input. If you prefer a manicured look:

• Set mower height to 2.5–3 inches, never scalp below 2 inches
• Mow every 10–14 days (buffalo grass grows slowly, 1–2 inches per month)
• Follow the one-third rule: never remove more than one-third of the blade height per mow
• Use a sharp rotary or reel mower
• Leave clippings on the lawn, they decompose quickly and return nutrients

According to the University of Missouri Extension, mowing buffalo grass lower than 2 inches weakens the turf and encourages weed encroachment. The best approach is to mow infrequently at a taller height, which aligns with the grass’s natural low-growth habit. For general mowing techniques that apply across all grass types, see our complete lawn mowing guide.

How much water does buffalo grass need?

Established buffalo grass needs only 0.25–0.5 inches of water per week during the growing season, roughly one-quarter of what Kentucky Bluegrass requires. In most regions within its native range, natural rainfall alone is sufficient with no supplemental irrigation needed.

Season	Weekly Water Need	Notes
Spring (green-up)	0.25 in	Natural rainfall usually sufficient; avoid overwatering
Summer	0.25–0.5 in	Irrigate only during prolonged drought (3+ weeks without rain)
Fall	0 in	Allow natural dormancy; stop irrigation by September
Winter (dormant)	0 in	Buffalo grass is dormant and brown, no water needed

According to Colorado State University Extension, overwatering buffalo grass is one of the most common mistakes homeowners make. Applying more than 1 inch per week promotes weed and bermuda grass invasion, which can quickly overwhelm a buffalo grass stand. Drought response: During extreme drought, buffalo grass enters summer dormancy and turns brown. This is a survival mechanism, not death. The crown and root system remain alive, and the grass will green up again once moisture returns. Dormant buffalo grass can survive 2–3 months without any water.

How do you fertilize buffalo grass?

Apply 1–2 lbs of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft per year, split into 1–2 applications during the growing season. Over-fertilizing buffalo grass is worse than under-fertilizing, excess nitrogen promotes weed competition and can actually thin the turf.

• First application (June): Apply 0.5–1 lb of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft after the grass has fully greened up
• Second application (optional, July–August): Apply another 0.5–1 lb of nitrogen only if the turf appears thin or pale
• Never fertilize in spring before buffalo grass greens up, this feeds cool-season weeds instead
• Never fertilize in fall, the grass is entering dormancy and cannot use the nutrients

According to Kansas State University Extension, native buffalo grass in natural settings receives zero fertilization and thrives. Lawn settings may benefit from light fertilization to improve density and color, but more than 2 lbs of nitrogen per year consistently degrades buffalo grass stands by encouraging weed encroachment.

What are common buffalo grass problems?

Buffalo grass has fewer pest and disease problems than most lawn grasses, but it faces specific challenges, primarily weed invasion and slow establishment. Understanding these issues helps you manage (or prevent) them effectively.

Weed invasion

This is the number one problem with buffalo grass lawns. Because buffalo grass is slow-growing and low-density compared to aggressive grasses like Bermuda, weeds can establish in bare spots. The solution is patience during establishment (keep weed pressure low with hand-pulling or selective herbicides) and avoiding overwatering or over-fertilizing, which benefit weeds more than buffalo grass.

Bermuda grass encroachment

In areas where Bermuda grass is present, it will aggressively invade buffalo grass stands, especially if the lawn receives more than 1 inch of water per week. There is no selective herbicide that kills Bermuda without also killing buffalo grass. Prevention (limiting water and fertilizer) is the only reliable strategy.

Slow spring green-up

Buffalo grass is one of the last warm-season grasses to green up in spring, typically not greening until soil temperatures reach 60°F (usually mid-May). This means your lawn will be brown for 6–8 months of the year in northern zones. This is normal and not a sign of problems.

Chinch bugs

Chinch bugs can damage buffalo grass in hot, dry conditions. Symptoms include irregular yellow-brown patches that don’t respond to watering. Treatment with bifenthrin or carbaryl is effective. Maintaining proper (low) irrigation helps prevent infestations.

Brown patch fungus

Overwatered buffalo grass can develop brown patch (Rhizoctonia solani), showing circular brown patches 6–24 inches in diameter. The solution is to reduce irrigation, buffalo grass is not adapted to wet conditions.

Buffalo grass vs. other low-maintenance grasses

Buffalo grass isn’t the only low-maintenance option. Here’s how it compares to other common drought-tolerant and low-input lawn grasses.

Feature	Buffalo Grass	Bermuda Grass	Zoysia Grass	Tall Fescue
Water needs	Very low (0.25–0.5 in/wk)	Medium (1–1.25 in/wk)	Low-medium (0.5–1 in/wk)	Medium (1–1.5 in/wk)
Mowing frequency	Every 10–14 days (or never)	Every 5–7 days	Every 7–10 days	Every 7–10 days
Fertilizer needs	1–2 lbs N/year	3–5 lbs N/year	2–3 lbs N/year	2–4 lbs N/year
Traffic tolerance	Low-moderate	Excellent	Good	Good
Shade tolerance	None	Low	Moderate	Good
Cold tolerance	Excellent (Zone 3)	Poor (Zone 7+)	Good (Zone 5+)	Excellent (Zone 3)
Drought tolerance	Excellent	Very good	Very good	Good
Establishment speed	Slow (1–3 seasons)	Fast	Slow-medium	Fast
Dormancy period	6–8 months (brown)	3–5 months	4–6 months	Evergreen (cool-season)
Best region	Great Plains (Zones 3–9)	Deep South (Zones 7–10)	Transition zone (Zones 5–10)	Transition zone (Zones 3–8)

Is buffalo grass right for your lawn?

Buffalo grass is an excellent choice if your priorities are minimal maintenance, water conservation, and environmental sustainability, and you’re willing to accept its limitations. Here’s a quick decision framework: Choose buffalo grass if:

• You live in the Great Plains or a semi-arid region with 12–25 inches of annual rainfall
• Your lawn gets 8+ hours of full sun daily
• You have heavy clay or loam soil
• You want to minimize mowing, watering, and fertilizing
• You can accept a brown lawn for 6–8 months during dormancy
• Low to moderate foot traffic is sufficient

Choose a different grass if:

• Your lawn has significant shade (choose zoysia or tall fescue instead)
• You need a year-round green lawn (choose tall fescue or overseeded bermuda)
• You live in the eastern US with 30+ inches of annual rainfall (weed pressure will be too high)
• You need a high-traffic lawn for sports or heavy play (choose bermuda or zoysia)
• You have sandy or well-drained soil (buffalo grass prefers heavy soils)

Frequently Asked Questions